Headshok Repair and Disassembly To make it easier on yourself, it's best to have the shocked before proceeding. First thing to do is have a nice clean area to work on and to lay parts out. If you have removed the shock then you have already removed the top dustcap or adjuster cap. Now you can remove the aluminum cap screwed into the aluminum body. Cannondale makes a tool to remove this with, but you have a Green Park (SPA1) pin spanner it will work as well. Once this is removed the shock will telescope freely in and out.

This cap that was just removed is attached to an aluminum pushrod at the interface between the pushrod and cap there may be a foam ring, slide down the ring to expose an area to put a wrench on, then with you pin spanner you can then remove the top cap. Now you have the top cap removed, you will notice that it is attached to an aluminum rod, as seen here.

The next thing is to remove the outer steerer from the assembly. When doing this the bearings and races will come out. It's best to label the races and where they go along with the bearings so that they are replaced the same way they were assembled. Some races are different thickness, you may want a micrometer to measure them with. I found that the inner races are all the same thickness and the outer races are different thickness, bye only varied by a few thousands of an inch. To remove the aluminum outer steerer, the large nut has to be remove from the base.

This can be done using your pin spanner, the holes are shown here in the picture. The nut is on there with thread locker so it is very hard to turn, don't worry if you think you are stripping the threads.

Headshok Repair and Disassembly To make it easier on yourself, it's best to have the shocked before proceeding. First thing to do is have a nice clean area to work on and to lay parts out.

If you have removed the shock then you have already removed the top dustcap or adjuster cap. Now you can remove the aluminum cap screwed into the aluminum body. Cannondale makes a tool to remove this with, but you have a Green Park (SPA1) pin spanner it will work as well. Once this is removed the shock will telescope freely in and out. This cap that was just removed is attached to an aluminum pushrod at the interface between the pushrod and cap there may be a foam ring, slide down the ring to expose an area to put a wrench on, then with you pin spanner you can then remove the top cap. Now you have the top cap removed, you will notice that it is attached to an aluminum rod, as seen here.

The next thing is to remove the outer steerer from the assembly. When doing this the bearings and races will come out. It's best to label the races and where they go along with the bearings so that they are replaced the same way they were assembled. Some races are different thickness, you may want a micrometer to measure them with. I found that the inner races are all the same thickness and the outer races are different thickness, bye only varied by a few thousands of an inch. To remove the aluminum outer steerer, the large nut has to be remove from the base.

Cannondale Super Fatty M Headshok Disassembly and reassembly, Step by Step. Mical supplied this copy of the complete Cannondale Headshok service manual. Your HeadShok equipped Cannondale bicycle should have. FT80 (Super Fatty SL), DD80 (Super Fatty D. Please see your Cannondale Bicycle Owner’s Manual for more. Modo Keygen Mac Os.

This can be done using your pin spanner, the holes are shown here in the picture. The nut is on there with thread locker so it is very hard to turn, don't worry if you think you are stripping the threads.